1984 - Bachelor Thesis
Autumn Winter 2016
“1984” is the costume design inspired from the George Orwell’s novel “1984” which describes the suffering in society that ruled by autocracy which use language to control people. As the consequence, caused new generation who has different thoughts to design the new costume that represent rebellion.
The design uses an anarchy style which is represented in order to act for the rebellion, as well as using the language from the novel 1984 that used for controlling people because language is the main part that lead the story by using print, texture, dyeing and collaging.
Being a student at Thammasat University, the university which gives an importance to politics, human rights and equality, led Mercy to begin designing a collection with politics concept. 1984 is one of the politics novel which is famous and important to TU students. Orwell told about the struggle of the dictator power and poverty through the main character named Winston Smith who lived in Oceania State controlled by Ingsoc Governmert. In contrast, most of citizens thought that these principles were normal. Futhermore, if someone against these, he/she deserved to be punished. This dystopia state created not only an oppression but also, "Newspeak" and propaganda that the government used for controlling the oceanian citizens. All old inappropriate histories (in Ingsoc's view) were replaced by new histories. In that point, Mercy started to focus on these newspeaks because language is the key of this story.
ANARCHY RUNS THESE CLOTHES
From a previous anarchy rebel clothing, which inspired from Punk, was adapted to be suitable to the modern age by integrating the Pop Culture and the Hip Hop Culture. From Punk to the "Anachic". This collection also became more various with Vivienne Westwood's punk decoration way, oversized outfit and big accessories from hip hop style.
According to punk, pop and hip hop styles, streetwear is a key silhouette for this collection. Mercy chose 3 collection form different designers, these were...
KTZ A/W 2015 - this British brand had got the inspiration from the movie named "A Clockwork Orange(1971)" which told a story about violence and crime in society. The brand decided to collage the leaders' pixel faces such as, Lenin and Mao to represent dystopia world in the designer's views.
W.I.A. x Dollskill Collection - impressive cutting and collaging in this collection caused it became reference. the W.I.A. Collection is the fashion brand which establishes hip hip and anarchic movement.
Nakazato Yuima 2014 Collection - the collection presented futurism style by using metallic materials. Futurism is a flawless idea for representing the young generation who wanted to projected their voices for the rights.
MOOD & TONE + SILOUETTE
Various techniques ; e.g. printing, screen, dyeing, and collaging, challenged Mercy to do her thesis. Thanks to the Vivien Westwoods' punk influence (ripped jeans, studs, pins etc.) that made style of punk became the main decoration for this collection. Collaging and screening were the technique for showing the Newspeak language. Stitching the newspeaks on sleeve loosely makes a model seem to be able to shake them off easily. Eventually, this language were still stuck on the cloth. This represented the suffering and the struggle with these words.